COME WITH ME TO THE USA!
My first online account of my travels around the USA a few weeks ago was so well-received – thanks to you, my readers – that I am following up with tales of more American adventures plus some thoughts on what's new and different to do and see once you get across the Big Pond..
Leona Tate (far left in pink dress) and Louisiana Lt Gov Billy Nungesser (far right) celebrate the new New Orleans Civil Rights site
Let's start with New Orleans. When last there, I was encouraged by Louisiana Lieutenant Governor Billy Nungesser to visit at least one of the new Civil Rights Trail sites he has been active in establishing across the state. And I was in for an unexpectedly pleasant surprise when I arrived at the city's former McDonogh 19 Elementary School which three brave, six-year-old, African-American girls desegregated in the face of brutal white opposition on November 14, 1960. For there to greet me was one of those girls, Leona Tate, now a stately middle-aged lady. Not only has she now bought the school which once tried to reject her but she is turning the ground floor into an interpretive museum and the upper floors into affordable housing for older people.
Natalie Pass Miller in front of The Historic Magnolia House Hotel
Just one example of the gradually changing face of the American South. And here's another. Do you recall hearing about the plight of Jim Crow era African-American travellers whose only overnight accommodation option was to stay in safe places listed in the 1936 Negro Travellers Green Book? (It was so vividly depicted in the powerful 2018 Green Book film.) Then fast forward to today's Greensboro, North Carolina where the local African-American Pace family has converted one of the city's Green Book establishments into The Historic Magnolia House Hotel, noting that during its earlier days it had hosted such luminaries as James Baldwin, Gladys Knight and Tina Turner. Now all are welcome and plans are afoot for an interpretive museum next door.
The Austin skyline and Barton Springs Pool
Recently in London, Tommy Woods of the Texas Office of the Governor – Economic Development and Tourism shared details of the new non-stop flights from London to Austin, the capital of the Lone Star State. The first new Virgin Atlantic flights to the USA since 2015, they will connect London-Heathrow with Austin-Bergstrom airport four times a week from 25 May. As they depart in the late morning and arrive in the early afternoon, pointed out Tommy, passengers will have ample time to immediately enjoy the city's vibrant music scene... in addition to promoting its numerous other attractions Austin calls itself “The Live Music Capital of the World”.
Austin is also the gateway to the lovely Texas Hill Country, home of 55 wineries and to historic Fredericksburg, particularly known for its German heritage, as well as to glorious old Tex/Mex San Antonio with its historic Spanish missions, notably the Alamo, and the vibrant River Walk restaurant, music and water cruise scene.
Also passing through London, Jesse Davis, Director of PR & Communications for Denver, Colorado enthused about the new and improved attractions in his 'Mile High City'. The Denver Art Museum, home of one of North America's most-extensive indigenous art collections, has recently been greatly expanded and re-interpreted. The oddly-named Meow Wolf arts collective group has made Denver the home of its largest permanent installation, showcasing the work of more than 300 artists. And growing in popularity is the new, seasonal Rocky Mountaineer rail service from Denver to Moab, Utah, which is not only the gateway to some of that state's most-spectacular national parks but also to scenic flights to Las Vegas.
Over cocktails at the top of The Shard I then was brought up to date about Washington State and Seattle news by David Blandford, Executive Director, State of Washington Tourism. Not only is Delta Air Lines beginning direct service from London to Seattle next month, joining American Airlines on the route as well as Aer Lingus from Dublin but passengers also will be arriving at Seattle-Tacoma Airport’s new $1 billion International Arrivals Facility.
A cruise ship leaves the Port of Seattle
Meanwhile, the Port of Seattle, largest on the West Coast, has increased its annual number of seven-day cruises to Alaska from 200 to nearly 300, bringing back happy memories of my Holland-America cruise from Seattle to Alaska a few years ago.
And that's not to forget my fun time in Seattle, soaring to the top of the Space Needle, celebrating its 60th birthday this year, learning more about the vibrant local music scene, including Jimi Hendrix and Grunge, at the Museum of Pop Culture and eating great seafood at the colourful Pike Place Market and elsewhere.
Back to the East Coast, I recently revisited the charming small town of Maplewood, New Jersey, where I lived for five years in the mid 1980s. While there I persuaded my hostess and old friend Rose Gilbert to accompany me on a nostalgic safari along the 130-mile-long Jersey Shore.
Although there were tempting, wide, white sandy beaches and seaside resorts all along the way we aimed first for the best-known one, Atlantic City. After admiring its famous Boardwalk, established in the 1870s and the oldest in America, popping into a couple of its landmark casinos and enjoying some great seafood, we decided to look for any tributes to the popular if sometimes controversial Miss America beauty pageants hosted by the city most years from 1921 until 2018.
A bevy of 1950s Miss America contestants
A number of the beauty queens' splendid gowns and other memorabilia were displayed in the foyer of the Sheraton Atlantic City Convention Center Hotel. And then we were each crowned Miss America by none other than its most famous host, Bert Parks, if only in statue form. As Bronze Bert held the crown above each of our heads he even belted out his signature song: “There she is... Miss America.” Ah, fame at last!
I'm crowned Miss America by Bert Parks
A Route 66 mural in Joline, Missouri
You can read more about our New Jersey adventures – for instance, about delightful Cape May, America's oldest seaside resort, and the Hamilton, New Jersey site where we were confronted by a famous naked woman on top of a hill – in the Spring issue of Essentially America. It's off press at the end of April and also includes a description of a memorable trip down the first four states of America's legendary – and nearly century old – Route 66 'Mother Road'.
Some of these subjects – and many others – arecovered in the current issue of Essentially America. To subscribe to Essentially America just send an email to subscription@phoenixip.com.
Meanwhile, check out my new book of travel and lifestyle anecdotes, Goodbye Hoop Skirts – Hello World! The Travels, Triumphs and Tumbles of a Runaway Southern Belle.
